PROENZA SCHOULER
FALL/WINTER 2010/2011

Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are taking the world by storm with their women’s wear line, Proenza Schouler. The label’s name originates from the designers’ mothers’ maiden names. The pair met in 1999 while studying at Parsons School of Design, where Hernandez interned at Michael Kors and McCollough interned at Marc Jacobs. Proenza Schouler was founded in 2002, and only a year later the designers won the CFDA’s Perry Ellis award for emerging talent.

Designers Hernandez and McCollough

The designers’ Fall 2010 collection told the story of a prude prep experimenting with her body. With highwaisted pleated skirts, collared shirts, and tailored blazers, the schoolgirl reference is in abundance. But this schoolgirl is slightly twisted. The Proenza schoolgirl has an abundance of looks that appear quite covered up, but upon further inspection, teases of skin are seen. She wears thigh high socks that show a sliver of skin as she walks. Geometrical cutouts in the front, back, and sides also gave a feeling of sly appeal. Most of these flashes of flesh were still tasteful with the use of perforated and sheer fabrics. The normally plain white shirt is given a sexy edge when paired with leather. When fur enters the picture, the collegiate uniform gets an extra dose of luxury. The prints in the collection added a young urban edge to the Proenza girl. The closing dresses were interesting as they wrapped and hugged the body, while layering a fitted top underneath.

All in all, the Fall 2010 collection is a play on opposites. The mix of modesty and sexuality creates an exuberantly stylish fearless woman. Hernandez and McCollough updated the once boring school girl into a femme fatale. With these designers being so young, all we can expect is greater collections in the future.

Review by Johnny Lombardi
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